Sewer Line Repair Frequently Asked Questions

The cost to repair a collapsed sewer line in Miami typically ranges from $2,500 to $15,000. Because every property is different, the final price depends on several key factors:

• Depth and Location: Pipes buried deeper or under concrete driveways/patios cost more to access.

• Extent of Damage: Repairing a small section is more affordable than a full sewer line replacement.

• Repair Method: Traditional excavation (digging) vs. modern trenchless sewer repair technology.

• Permits & Inspections: Local Miami-Dade city requirements and necessary plumbing permits.

Our Approach to Savings: We understand that a collapsed sewer line is an emergency. We use high-definition sewer camera inspections to pinpoint the exact location of the collapse, ensuring we only fix what is necessary to keep your costs down and avoid unnecessary digging.

Pro Tip: Don’t guess! Contact us today for an accurate, on-site estimate to get your sewer system flowing again.

The cheapest way to replace a sewer line is often through Trenchless Pipe Lining (CIPP). While the upfront cost of trenchless technology might seem similar to traditional digging, it saves you thousands of dollars in “hidden” restoration costs.

Here is why Trenchless is the most budget-friendly option for Miami homeowners:

• No Landscaping Costs: Traditional replacement requires digging a deep trench through your yard, driveway, or patio. Trenchless avoids the cost of replacing your grass, pavers, or concrete.

• Lower Labor Hours: Since there is less digging involved, the job is completed faster, reducing the total man-hours on your final bill.

• Minimal Destruction: You won’t have to hire additional contractors to fix floors or walls inside your home.

• Spot Repair: If only a small section is damaged, a targeted spot repair is the absolute cheapest way to restore flow without replacing the entire line.

Our Cost-Saving Strategy: We prioritize cost-effective solutions that protect your property. We use high-definition cameras to see if your line is a candidate for pipe lining or a simple spot fix, ensuring you don’t pay a penny more than necessary to get your system back in top shape.

Yes, in many cases, a sewer line can be repaired without the need for a full, costly replacement. Whether your line has a minor crack, a localized leak, or damage from tree roots, modern plumbing techniques allow for effective, targeted fixes.

The possibility of a repair depends on the overall condition of the pipe:

• Spot Repairs: If the damage is limited to one specific area, a “spot repair” can fix that section only, saving you from the expense of a full-scale job.

   

• Trenchless Relining (CIPP): For pipes with cracks or small gaps, an epoxy liner can be inserted to create a “pipe within a pipe.” This seals the damage without digging up your entire yard.

   
   

• Tree Root Removal: If roots have invaded the pipe joints, they can often be cleared out and the joints sealed to restore full flow and structural integrity.

• When Repair Isn’t Recommended: If the entire line has collapsed or the pipe material (like old Orangeburg or heavily corroded cast iron) is crumbling, a replacement is usually the safer and more cost-effective long-term investment.

   

To determine the best course of action, a high-definition sewer camera inspection is essential. This diagnostic tool allows experts to see the exact cause of the problem and confirm if a simple repair will solve the issue for your property.

In Miami, responsibility for a broken sewer pipe depends entirely on the location of the damage. Generally, the homeowner is responsible for the portion of the sewer line that runs from the house to the property line (often referred to as the upper lateral).

Here is a breakdown of how responsibility is typically divided:

• The Homeowner: You are responsible for any clogs, breaks, or root intrusions in the pipe that connects your home to the main city sewer line. This includes the section under your yard and often up to the sidewalk or curb.

• Miami-Dade Water & Sewer Department (WASD): The city is responsible for the main sewer line (the large pipe running under the street) and the connection point if the issue originates in the public right-of-way.

• Insurance Coverage: Many standard homeowners’ insurance policies do not cover sewer line repairs. However, if you have a specific “service line coverage” endorsement, your insurance may help pay for the repair costs.

• The Diagnostic Step: Since pipes are underground, it’s impossible to know who is responsible without a sewer camera inspection. Identifying the exact location of the break is the only way to determine if you or the city needs to handle the repair.

If you suspect a break, the first step is to have a professional assessment. If the damage is found on your property, you will need to contact a licensed plumber to perform the necessary repairs to keep your system code-compliant.

Yes, modern trenchless technology allows for sewer line replacement with little to no digging. This method is a game-changer for homeowners who want to avoid destroying their driveways, landscaping, or expensive flooring.

There are two primary ways this is achieved:

• Pipe Bursting: A specialized tool is pulled through your existing old pipe, breaking it apart while simultaneously pulling a brand-new, high-density polyethylene (HDPE) pipe into its place. This requires only two small access points at the beginning and end of the line.

• Pipe Lining (CIPP): A flexible tube coated with epoxy resin is inserted into the damaged pipe. Once the resin cures, it creates a seamless, structural “pipe within a pipe” that is just as strong as a brand-new line.

• Speed & Convenience: While traditional trenching can take a week and leave a mess, trenchless replacement is often completed in just 24 to 48 hours.

• Cost Savings: Although the technology itself is advanced, you save a significant amount of money by avoiding the costs of replanting grass, re-paving driveways, or replacing interior tiles.

If you are looking for a cleaner and faster solution, trenchless sewer replacement is the best option for modern Miami properties. Our team uses specialized equipment to ensure your sewer system is fully restored with minimal disruption to your home.

A broken sewer line often starts with subtle clues before turning into a plumbing nightmare. If you notice any of the following signs in your Miami home, it is a strong indicator that your sewer pipe needs immediate attention:

• Sewer Gas Odor: A healthy sewer system is airtight. If you smell rotten eggs or a foul sewage odor inside or around your property, there is likely a crack or break in the line.

• Slow Drains or Frequent Backups: If multiple toilets, sinks, or tubs are draining slowly or backing up simultaneously, the issue is usually in the main sewer line rather than a single pipe.

• Lush, Extra-Green Patches of Grass: If one area of your lawn is suddenly greener and faster-growing than the rest, it may be absorbing “natural fertilizer” from a leaking underground sewer pipe.

• Indents or Soggy Spots in the Yard: A continuous leak can wash away the soil under your yard, leading to sunken patches or persistently wet spots even when it hasn’t rained.

• Gurgling Noises: If your toilets make a “gurgling” sound when you run water in the sink or shower, it means air is trapped in the line due to a break or blockage.

• Foundation Cracks or Mold: In extreme cases, a broken line under the house can lead to foundation cracks or unexplained mold growth on walls due to rising moisture.

Ignoring these warning signs can lead to expensive structural damage and health hazards. If you are experiencing more than one of these symptoms, a professional camera inspection is the most reliable way to locate the damage before it gets worse.

Replacing a sewer line under a concrete slab is more complex than standard yard repairs. On average, homeowners in Miami can expect to pay between $5,000 and $20,000. The cost usually ranges from $150 to $300 per linear foot, depending on the accessibility and the extent of the damage.

Several factors influence this price:

• Excavation Method: Jackhammering through your interior floors is labor-intensive and messy. Alternatively, tunnelling under the slab from the outside can preserve your floors but often costs more in labor.

• Restoration Costs: Beyond plumbing, you must factor in the cost of pouring new concrete and replacing flooring (tiles, hardwood, or laminate) once the pipe is fixed.

• Trenchless Pipe Lining (The Cost-Effective Alternative): In many cases, we can avoid breaking the slab entirely by using CIPP (Cured-in-Place Pipe) lining. This creates a new pipe inside the old one, saving you thousands of dollars in flooring restoration.

• Depth of the Slab: Thicker or reinforced concrete requires more time and specialized equipment to penetrate, increasing the total bill.

Because of the high stakes involved with slab work, we recommend a sewer camera inspection first. This allows us to determine if the line can be relined without cutting into your home’s foundation, potentially saving you a significant amount of money and stress.

In Miami, the average cost for pipe or drain relining (also known as CIPP) typically ranges from $160 to $250 per linear foot. For most residential projects, the total cost usually falls between $4,000 and $12,000, depending on the diameter of the pipe and the length of the section being relined.

While the “per foot” price of relining may seem higher than traditional digging, it is often the more affordable total solution because:

• No Property Restoration: You save thousands of dollars by not having to replace torn-up driveways, lush landscaping, or expensive interior flooring.

• Minimal Labor: Relining is a specialized process that requires fewer workers and can often be completed in a single day.

• Long-Term Durability: Most epoxy relining solutions come with a 50-year life expectancy, making it a “one and done” investment.

• Sectional Options: If only a specific part of your drain is damaged, we can perform sectional point repairs, which significantly reduces the overall cost compared to a full-line replacement.

Our Efficiency Focus: We provide a detailed cost breakdown after a camera inspection. Our team focuses on providing the most efficient relining solutions that protect both your home’s structure and your long-term budget.

No, you don’t need to avoid a house just because it has a septic system. In fact, many homeowners prefer it. However, buying a septic property requires a different level of due diligence compared to a home connected to the city sewer.

To make a smart decision, consider these pros and cons:

• The Benefits:

  • No Monthly Sewer Bills: You won’t receive a monthly bill from the city for sewage treatment, which can save you hundreds of dollars a year.

  • Independence: Your home’s waste management is independent of municipal main breaks or city-wide backups.

  • Eco-Friendly: A well-maintained septic system treats waste naturally and keeps water local to your property’s water table.

• The Responsibilities:

  • Maintenance is on You: You are responsible for pumping the tank every 3 to 5 years (costing roughly $300–$600) and ensuring the drain field remains clear.

  • Usage Habits: You have to be careful about what goes down the drain. Excessive grease, harsh chemicals, and “flushable” wipes can damage the natural bacteria and clog the system.

  • Repair Costs: If the system fails or the drain field needs replacement, the cost can be significant ($5,000 to $20,000+).

Pro Tip for Buyers:

Never buy a septic home without a specialized septic inspection. A standard home inspection is not enough. A professional will pump the tank and use a camera to check the condition of the tank and the absorption of the drain field. If the system is in good shape, it can last for 25 to 40 years with proper care.

While pipe relining (CIPP) is a revolutionary trenchless method, it is not a “one-size-fits-all” fix. It is important to understand its limitations before deciding if it’s right for your property:

• Not Suitable for Collapsed Pipes: Relining requires the “host pipe” to have its basic structure intact. If your sewer line has completely collapsed, crushed, or is severely misaligned (back-pitched), a liner cannot be inserted. In these cases, traditional excavation or pipe bursting is the only option.

• Slightly Reduced Diameter: Because you are essentially placing a “pipe within a pipe,” the internal diameter of the sewer line will decrease slightly. While the smooth epoxy surface often improves flow speed, the physical space inside the pipe is marginally smaller.

• Higher Upfront Technology Cost: On a per-foot basis, relining can sometimes be more expensive than traditional digging. The savings only become apparent when you factor in the thousands of dollars you save by not having to repair your driveway, patio, or landscaping.

• Dependence on Professional Skill: Relining is a high-tech process. If the pipe isn’t cleaned perfectly with hydro-jetting first, or if the resin doesn’t cure at the right temperature, the liner can develop wrinkles or fail to bond, leading to future blockages.

• Cannot Fix “Bellies” (Sagging Pipes): If your pipe has a “belly” (a section that sags and holds water), relining will simply follow the shape of that sag. It will seal the pipe, but it won’t fix the standing water issue that leads to clogs.

Pipe relining is an incredible tool for fixing cracks and root intrusion without the mess, but it cannot “resurrect” a pipe that has already structurally failed. A thorough camera inspection is the only way to know if your pipe is a candidate for relining or if it truly needs a replacement.

In Miami, the cost to clean a main sewer line typically ranges from $200 to $800, depending on the severity of the blockage and the method used. Because main lines are larger and more critical than simple sink drains, they require professional-grade equipment.

Here is a breakdown of what you can expect to pay:

• Standard Snaking (Augering): For simple clogs like paper buildup or minor debris, snaking usually costs between $200 and $450. This method “punches a hole” through the clog to restore flow but may leave some residue behind.

• Hydro Jetting (Deep Cleaning): For heavy grease, scale buildup, or stubborn tree roots, hydro jetting is the gold standard. It costs between $450 and $900 but uses high-pressure water to scrub the pipe walls completely clean, preventing future clogs.

• Camera Inspection: Many professionals include a camera inspection with the cleaning, but if charged separately, it can cost $150 to $350. This is vital to ensure the pipe isn’t actually broken.

• Emergency Service: If your sewer backs up at night or on a weekend, expect to pay an additional emergency fee of $150 to $300 on top of the cleaning cost.

• Accessibility: If your home has an easy-to-reach “cleanout” pipe outside, the cost remains standard. If the plumber has to remove a toilet or go through the roof vent to access the line, labor costs will increase.

Pro Tip: While snaking is cheaper upfront, Hydro Jetting often saves you money in the long run by extending the time between cleanings and protecting the structural integrity of your pipes.

Fixing a collapsed sewer line can take anywhere from 24 hours to 5 days, depending on the repair method and the location of the collapse. Because a collapsed pipe prevents all water usage in the home, speed is usually a top priority.

Here is a realistic timeline based on the two main repair methods:

• Trenchless Pipe Bursting (1 to 2 Days): This is the fastest method for a collapsed line. We use the existing path of the old pipe to pull a brand-new HDPE pipe through it. Since there is no major digging involved, the repair is often completed in just one or two days.

• Traditional Excavation (3 to 5 Days): If the collapse is under a heavy structure, deep underground, or requires city street access, we must dig a trench. This process takes longer because of the time needed for excavation, pipe replacement, and then backfilling the soil and restoring the surface (grass, concrete, or asphalt).

• Permits and Inspections: In Miami-Dade, local regulations may require a city inspector to sign off on the work before we can close the trench. This can sometimes add 24 to 48 hours to the total project time.

• Emergency Stabilization: In most cases, our team can provide a temporary bypass or stabilization within a few hours so that the most critical symptoms (like sewage backups) are managed while the permanent fix is underway.

While the physical pipe replacement might only take a day, the preparation and restoration can stretch the project. If you have a total collapse, trenchless options are your best bet for getting your water back on as quickly as possible.

Yes, for the vast majority of homeowners, pipe relining is absolutely worth the investment. While the cost per foot may be higher than traditional digging, the “total project cost” is almost always lower when you factor in the money you save on restoration.

Here is why pipe relining is considered the superior choice:

• Protects Your Property: Traditional sewer replacement requires digging a deep trench through your yard, driveway, or even your kitchen floor. Relining saves you from the massive expense of re-paving driveways, replacing expensive sod, or re-tiling your home.

• Root-Proof Seamless Design: One of the biggest causes of sewer failure is tree roots entering through pipe joints. A relined pipe is a single, continuous piece of epoxy with no joints, making it virtually impossible for roots to break in again.

• 50-Year Lifespan: Modern epoxy liners are incredibly durable. Once cured, they are as strong as a brand-new PVC pipe and are rated to last for 50 years or more.

• Minimal Disruption: Instead of living in a construction zone for a week, relining is usually completed in 24 hours. You get your water and toilets back online much faster.

• Increased Property Value: Having a certified, trenchless-repaired sewer system is a major selling point. It gives future buyers peace of mind that they won’t face sewer issues for decades.

When is it NOT worth it? If your pipe has completely collapsed or has a severe “belly” (sagging), relining won’t fix the structural issue. In those specific cases, we would recommend pipe bursting or traditional replacement.

Usually, no. A standard homeowners insurance policy (HO-3) typically does not cover sewer line repairs or replacement, especially if the damage is caused by old age, wear and tear, or tree roots.

However, there are specific scenarios and “add-ons” where you might be covered:

• Standard Policy Coverage (Limited): Your insurance might only pay if the damage is “Sudden and Accidental” and caused by a “Covered Peril”—for example, if an explosion or a neighbor’s vehicle damages the pipe on your property.

• Service Line Coverage (The Best Protection): This is an optional “endorsement” or rider you can add to your policy (usually for $30–$60 a year). It specifically covers underground utility lines, including sewer pipes, for failures caused by tree roots, corrosion, or wear and tear. It often provides $10,000 to $25,000 in coverage.

• Water Backup Endorsement: Many homeowners confuse this with pipe repair. This coverage pays for the cleanup and restoration (like replacing ruined flooring or drywall) if sewage backs up into your home, but it usually does not pay to fix the actual pipe outside.

• Wear and Tear Exclusion: Insurance companies almost never cover damage that happens gradually. If your 50-year-old cast iron pipe has simply corroded over time, they will likely deny the claim as “preventable maintenance.”

What should you do?

1. Check your Policy Declaration Page: Look for “Service Line Coverage” or “Buried Utility Coverage.”

2. Contact your Agent: Ask specifically if your exterior sewer line is protected against tree root intrusion.

3. Get a Camera Inspection: Before filing a claim, have a plumber document the exact cause of the damage. This evidence is crucial for a successful insurance claim.

Fixing a pipe under a concrete slab doesn’t always mean jackhammering your floors. Depending on the damage, there are three professional ways to handle this:

• 1. Trenchless Pipe Relining (CIPP): This is the most popular “no-dig” solution. A flexible, epoxy-saturated liner is inserted into the broken pipe and inflated. Once it cures (hardens), it creates a brand-new, jointless pipe inside the old one.

  • Pros: Zero damage to your floors; finished in 24 hours.

  • Best for: Cracks, leaks, and root intrusion.

• 2. Under-Slab Tunneling: If the pipe needs physical replacement but you want to save your interior flooring (like expensive marble or hardwood), plumbers can dig a tunnel starting from outside the house, underneath the foundation.

  • Pros: All the mess stays outside; you can stay in your home during repairs.

  • Best for: Replacing sections of pipe that have collapsed.

• 3. Traditional Slab Cutting: This is the “old school” method where the plumber pinpoints the leak, cuts through the concrete floor inside your house, and replaces the pipe.

  • Pros: Often has the lowest upfront plumbing cost.

  • Cons: Extremely messy; you will have to pay thousands extra to replace your tiles or flooring afterward.

• 4. Pipe Rerouting: Sometimes, it’s easier to simply “abandon” the broken pipe under the slab and run a completely new sewer line through the walls or around the exterior of the house.

Trenchless sewer repair is a modern, minimally invasive method used to fix or replace underground pipes without digging a continuous trench across your property. Instead of excavating your entire yard, plumbers use specialized equipment to access the sewer line through one or two small entry points.

There are two main types of trenchless technology:

• Pipe Lining (CIPP): A flexible, resin-soaked liner is inserted into the damaged pipe and inflated. Once the resin cures (hardens), it creates a seamless, “pipe-within-a-pipe” that is resistant to roots and corrosion.

• Pipe Bursting: If the old pipe is too damaged for lining, a new HDPE pipe is pulled through the old one using a bursting head. The old pipe is fractured outward, and the new, stronger pipe takes its place immediately.

Why it’s worth it:

• Preserves Landscaping: You don’t have to destroy your garden, patio, or driveway.

• Saves Time: Most repairs are completed in just 24 to 48 hours.

• Cost-Effective: While the upfront technology cost can be higher, you save thousands by avoiding restoration costs (like new sod, concrete, or tiling).

• Long-Lasting: Trenchless repairs typically come with a 50-year life expectancy.

The lifespan of a sewer line depends entirely on the material it’s made of and how well it has been maintained. If you live in an older home, your pipes might be nearing the end of their functional life.

Here is a breakdown of the most common materials and their life expectancy:

Factors that shorten a pipe’s life:

• Tree Root Intrusion: Roots are the #1 enemy of clay and cast iron pipes, causing cracks and major blockages.

• Ground Shifting: Soil movement can cause pipes to “belly” (sag) or snap.

• Chemical Drain Cleaners: Frequent use of harsh chemicals can actually eat away at cast iron and older metal pipes from the inside out.

• Corrosive Soil: Certain soil types can accelerate the oxidation of metal pipes.

Pro Tip for Miami Homeowners: If your home was built before 1975, you likely have cast iron pipes. Since these are now 50+ years old, they are often at the “high risk” stage for failure. A camera inspection once every two years can help you catch small cracks before they turn into a full-blown collapse.

Unlike a faucet leak, a main water line issue happens underground and can cause significant damage to your property’s foundation if ignored. You should consider replacing your main water line if you notice any of the following “Red Flags”:

• Unexplained Spike in Water Bills: If your water usage habits haven’t changed but your monthly bill is skyrocketing, you likely have a hidden underground leak in your main line.

• Discolored or Rusty Water: If your tap water looks brown, yellow, or contains sediment, your old metal pipes (usually galvanized steel) are likely corroding from the inside out. This is a health hazard and a sign of imminent failure.

• Persistent Low Water Pressure: A significant drop in pressure throughout the house often indicates a large leak or a pipe that is nearly choked off by internal rust and mineral buildup.

• Frequent Leaks and Repairs: If you have repaired your water line two or more times in the last couple of years, you are throwing money away. Constant “patching” is a sign that the entire pipe’s integrity has failed.

• Age of the Home: If your home was built before the 1970s and still has its original galvanized steel or lead pipes, it is past its prime. Modern Copper or PEX replacements are much safer and more durable.

• Soggy Spots in the Yard: If you see puddles or unusually green, lush patches of grass in your lawn during a dry spell, your main line is likely leaking right beneath that spot.

If your pipe is over 40 years old or you’ve had more than one leak recently, replacement is the most cost-effective solution. In Miami, where ground shifting and heat can stress pipes, upgrading to modern materials like Copper or HDPE provides long-term peace of mind.

Tree roots are naturally drawn to the moisture and nutrients inside your sewer pipes. Once they find a tiny crack or a loose joint, they grow inside, creating a “web” that catches debris and causes major backups.

Here is the step-by-step professional approach to dealing with them:

• 1. Mechanical Removal (Hydro-Jetting): The first step is to clear the blockage. While a plumber’s snake can punch a hole through the roots, Hydro-Jetting is far more effective. It uses high-pressure water to scrub the pipe walls and cut the roots out completely, restoring full flow.

• 2. Chemical Root Killers: After the roots are cleared, we often use a professional-grade, foam-based root killer (like RootX). The foam fills the entire pipe and kills any remaining root ends without killing the tree itself.

• 3. The Permanent Solution (Trenchless Pipe Lining): This is the only way to stop roots for good. Roots enter through joints in clay or cast iron pipes. By installing a seamless epoxy liner, we create a single, solid pipe from end to end. With no joints or cracks to enter, the roots simply grow around the pipe instead of into it.

• 4. Regular Maintenance: If you choose not to reline, you should schedule a professional camera inspection and root treatment at least once a year to prevent a total collapse.

Why you shouldn’t wait: As roots grow, they act like a wedge, eventually splitting the pipe open. What starts as a simple clog can quickly turn into a total pipe collapse, which is much more expensive to fix.

A sewer line inspection camera is a high-definition, waterproof video camera attached to the tip of a long, flexible fiber-optic cable. It is designed to travel deep inside your underground pipes to give you and your plumber a live, bird’s-eye view of the interior of your sewer system.

Here is how it helps and why it’s a game-changer for homeowners:

• Eliminates Guesswork: Without a camera, plumbers have to “guess” where the blockage is. A camera inspection identifies the exact cause—whether it’s tree root intrusion, a collapsed pipe, a bellied line, or just a stubborn grease clog.

• Precision Locating: These cameras are equipped with a “Sonde” (a signal transmitter). As the camera moves through the pipe, we use a receiver above ground to pinpoint the exact spot and depth of the problem. This means we only dig where it’s absolutely necessary, saving your lawn and driveway.

• Visual Proof (Transparency): You don’t have to take our word for it. You can watch the live monitor with us and see the condition of your pipes for yourself. Most professional services will also provide you with a digital recording of the footage.

• Insurance & Real Estate: If you are buying a new home or filing an insurance claim, a camera inspection provides the documented evidence needed to prove the condition of the sewer line.

• Post-Repair Verification: We use the camera again after the repair or cleaning is finished to ensure the line is 100% clear and the job was done right.

Pro Tip: If you are experiencing frequent backups, don’t just keep snaking the drain. A camera inspection is the only way to find out if you’re dealing with a simple clog or a structural failure that needs immediate attention.

Tree roots are naturally attracted to the warmth and moisture of your sewer pipes. What starts as a microscopic “hair-like” root finding a tiny crack can quickly turn into a plumbing disaster.

Here is the “domino effect” of what happens inside your lines:

• The Web Effect (Blockages): Once inside, roots grow rapidly, creating a thick, tangled web. This web acts like a filter, catching grease, toilet paper, and household debris. This leads to frequent slow drains and eventually a total backup.

• Pipe Expansion & Cracking: As the roots drink the nutrient-rich sewage, they grow thicker. Like a wedge in a crack, the expanding roots put immense pressure on the pipe walls, causing small cracks to become major fractures.

• Structural Failure (Collapse): Eventually, the pressure becomes too much, and the pipe loses its structural integrity. This leads to a collapsed sewer line, which often requires expensive excavation to fix.

• Soil Erosion & Sinkholes: Where roots enter, water escapes. This leaking sewage washes away the soil supporting the pipe, which can lead to “bellies” (sagging) in the line or even small sinkholes in your yard.

• Gurgling and Odors: As the roots restrict airflow and water flow, you will start hearing “gurgling” sounds from your toilets and smelling foul sewage odors around your drains or in your yard.

The Reality: Roots will never stop growing on their own. If you ignore them, they will eventually “eat” your sewer line from the inside out. Early detection through a camera inspection can save you from a full pipe replacement.

The short answer is: Technically yes, but it won’t fix the actual problem. A “belly” occurs when a section of the sewer pipe sags due to soil erosion, ground shifting, or poor installation. This creates a low point where water and debris sit (standing water) instead of flowing away with gravity.

Here is why you need to be careful with trenchless options for a bellied line:

• Lining Follows the Shape: Trenchless pipe lining (CIPP) involves inserting a flexible liner that hardens inside the existing pipe. If the pipe is sagging, the new liner will also sag. It will seal any leaks or cracks, but the “dip” in the line will still be there.

• The “Standing Water” Issue: Because the slope (grade) of the pipe is still incorrect, solid waste will continue to collect in the belly, leading to frequent clogs and backups even with a brand-new liner.

• Pipe Bursting Limitations: While pipe bursting can sometimes slightly improve a minor sag, it generally follows the path of the old pipe. It cannot magically “re-level” the ground underneath.

What is the correct fix? To properly fix a bellied line, the sagging section must be physically excavated, the soil re-graded (leveled), and new pipe installed at the correct slope.

Our Recommendation: Don’t waste money on lining a bellied pipe. We recommend a camera inspection to see how deep the sag is. If the belly is minor, hydro-jetting might keep it clear for a while; but if it’s significant, a conventional “spot repair” is the only way to ensure your sewer flows correctly by gravity.